@kile and I looked at the old tube, it was an S4 made in November of 2015, but I did not find any of the Reci anti counterfeiting features from their website. I suspect they were added recently though.
The hour meter says 275 hours in the last four months or so… An S4 tube should get about 10k hours according to Reci’s website, which I don’t think there is any way we hit.
So i’ll be moving on August 5th. I don’t imagine i’ll need much help as I don’t have a lot to move and will be moving the some of the boxes up beforehand, but some help to move my bed and dresser would be appreciated. @arasbm Does the 5th still work for use of your truck?
Before the wind picked up I cut, painted and reinstalled the base. Take a look at the old panel compared to the new one.
A disc grinder with a cutting discs cuts better than I remember, so no need for the plasma cutter.
I also took the moment to drill out the old levelling bolts because once this was upright again I didn’t want to tip it back over. Bye-bye went the threads so I think I’ll redo that with threaded bolts and a nut. Just take two crescent wrenches and spin either the nut or the bolt and raise it the half inch or so you need to level the thing.
I also started reassembling the electronics I already pulled out.
The panel on the right sat in front of the compressor and was the main power distribution terminal strip. The other piece is the plugboard for setting the door prices and the three ballasts and lamp starters for the lighting.
The little 15W ballast had to be replaced because it was so badly animal damaged. thankfully we have a small stash of these ballasts in the hack room. I painted one black and bolted it in.
The other two ballasts are another story. They are original to when I got the machine with no promises that they still work but because of their odd size and their requirement for starters I didn’t have much of a choice but to clean, repaint and reinstall them anyways. They do both likely contain PCB’s.
@Jacob-S. I’ve also learned of interesting techniques to bind a ceramic thin layer to metals and other materials… mostly to improve their corrosive resistance and thermal properties (see ceramic thin film for details).
Power supply is putting out about 20kv, and we are not letting it go above 26mA = 520 watts going into the laser.
I looked up the MYJG100W power supply that we have in there right now… It maxes out at 28mA, and constant output voltag is 40kv… Yep, 1040 watts go into the tube. 119 comes out as a laser. 921 is removed as heat by the chiller.
That makes the laser tube 11.4% efficient at converting electricity to coherent light. Pretty impressive for a hand-blown glass tube, with a bit of vacuum, some gas and some IR-reflective surfaces. Back in the '70’s Bob Iannini described how to build a similar tube yourself and build and troubleshoot the power supply for it, but he implied that it would be closer to 2% efficient.