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  • Garret H
    replied
    Quick update:
    I'll be spending some time designing the ducting. I've been doing a little reading on sizing and some of the requirements, and it will take some careful planning on the runs, blast gate location and the like. The key bits here are making sure air velocity in the ducting is high enough to pick up all the fine dust and improve air quality.

    Some sources I'll be using:
    https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/content/6-duct-design
    http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyc..._faqs.cfm#FAQs
    https://www.oneida-air.com/blog/how-...-duct-diameter
    https://www.spiralmfg.com/designing-...ection-system/

    Leave a comment:


  • Garret H
    replied
    Rob and Nicholas sketched up a plan for a more detailed piping diagram, see below.

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    I spent some time last night measuring the dust collector as it was built and where it will come through the wall. I put some tape where the cutout will be - this is a rough approximation only so no cutting until the plan is finalized. It just sneaks in past the conduit and water pipes, which will make for a tricky cut but is doable. Worst case Ontario we move some electrical temporarily.

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    I also took a peek under the ceiling tiles and really didn't like what I saw. Instead of a big open space I just saw more ceiling. There is a minimum of 6 3/4" clearance between the T-bar and protrusions on the old metal. This gives us room for the pipe, but not for any elbows we put in there.
    For the best fit I think we will want to keep our piping below the ceiling tiles and visible in the fab shop.


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    The total floor and old ceiling combined is a total depth of about 18". Punching pipes through all that might not be fun.
    Regardless of where the dust collector lives on the outside of the building we would have ran into this problem (I remember once suggesting we just put it in the woodshop for simplicity lol).


    Here is a rough drawing of where things live for now, I showed the duct crammed in over the ceiling tiles but am thinking the ducting will want to live below. See the attached PDF that you need to be logged in to download.

    I'll keep laying this out, this is just a general update.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Garret H; 08-20-2019, 08:54 AM.

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  • Garret H
    replied
    Just using long radius bends will also make a huge difference in pressure drop at any direction changes.

    If need be we can always build a custom long radius fitting that suits the installation. There is already a square to round transition adapter on the DC. Take that thing off and build our own, we have the laser and we can buy plexi worst case scenario.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garret H
    replied
    We want the top of the enclosure below the stair platform above for future plans, locating it any higher would be bad.

    We can simply trim some elbows at smaller angles to slope the pipes once inside.

    i'll just draw this up, I already know where most everything lives, just need to tape off the rest and produce a more detailed layout.

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  • Grant Fraser
    replied
    The top of the inside of the enclosure is lower than the t-bar ceiling in the fab shop. The original plan was to pipe directly from the enclosure to the space above the t-bar. We need to install the ductwork with the fewest bends possible.
    1) We can poke the pipe through lower and do 2 back to back 90s to get above the t-bar. This makes the system much less effective.
    2) We can raise the enclosure. Huge amount of work and likely to conflict with the stairs.
    3) We can pipe out the roof and into the building. Still 2 back to back 90s, just outside.
    4) We can enter a pipe at 45 degrees and have it come through the wall and into the ceiling at an angle. This causes more damage to the siding because the hole is bigger but is way more efficient.
    5) We can make the passage through the wall level but have angled ducts or a plenum chamber on the inside.
    6) other things I haven't thought of.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garret H
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Grant!

  • Garret H
    commented on 's reply
    Can you elaborate?

  • Grant Fraser
    replied
    4.3 Motor connected.
    4.4 Motor tested ok. This relay uses 120v to energize. Motor is switched on by a single switch with an indicator light, located in the wood shop.
    Sound level is good.
    flex hose that connects the funnel to the barrel collapses halfway.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grant Fraser
    replied
    I was looking at knocking a hole in the wall to run the ductwork but things don't look like they line up as planned. Need a modified plan.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garret H
    replied
    Making an update on this thread.

    Once more a huge thanks to Nicholas Adams who has completed the dust collector enclosure and installed the dust collector itself.



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    With that there is a tiny bit of electrical work to do, but the real bulk of things lies in the dust collector plumbing.

    This part will take a lot of hands, we'll get the plans laid out and be ready to take on as many helpers as possible for this phase.


    1.0 Dust Collector Enclosure Framing COMPLETE
    2.0 Dust Collector Enclosure Cladding COMPLETE
    3.0 Dust Collector Enclosure Interior COMPLETE

    4.0 Dust Collector Install COMPLETE
    • 4.1 Run 220V power to outside of building COMPLETE
    • 4.2 Install dust collector to enclosure COMPLETE
    • 4.3 Connect power source to motor COMPLETE
    • 4.4 Test operation of DC COMPLETE

    5.0 Dust collector piping - TO START SOON
    • 5.1 Run primary duct through wall to DC
    • 5.2 Cut wood shop floor openings
    • 5.3 Install all primary ducts
    • 5.4 Install piping to tools and tie into primary ducts
    6.0 Commissioning
    • 6.1 Run the dust collector
    • 6.2 Breathe clean dust free air and enjoy a massive improvement to the Makerspace!!
    Last edited by Garret H; 08-18-2019, 01:55 PM.

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  • Garret H
    replied
    Nicholas Adams was busy working on the enclosure AGAIN - absolutely crushing it!

    Doors are on, insulation is in place, and the inside is skinned. There's just a little work remaining to install door jambs and insulation/skin on the door to seal things up.

    The enclosure is ready for the dust collector on the inside.





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    Last edited by Garret H; 07-22-2019, 12:55 PM.

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  • Garret H
    replied
    Nicholas Adams , Synchro and myself put in some time last night on the enclosure after the board meeting.

    We dropped off a whole bunch of materials to finish up the structure:
    • 2x4's to build the doors
    • Cedar siding for the doors
    • Cedar fascia boards
    • Door hinges (8 in total)
    • Sound N safe insulation (2 bags)
    • Vapour barrier (1 roll)
    • Tar paper (1 roll)
    • Roof shingles
    Then we got to work in what time was left and manged to install the roof plywood and cover it in tar paper, and finish off the opening frame for the door.

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    Here are plans to build the doors into four identical quarter panels. The GA drawing shows all the clearances. After the door is built some boards should be installed to the face of the door to overlap things and seal it up. Some foam tape will help also.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Garret H; 07-16-2019, 10:27 AM.

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  • Garret H
    replied
    An update ahead of this weeks Maker Monday. The dust collector enclosure is coming together.

    Helping hands are most needed. Other than that it's just a matter of having the materials on hand to build.
    Here is a breakdown of what we'll need:

    I believe Nicholas Adams has these materials:
    - Door hinges x8
    - Roof shingles

    Purchased materials needed: - drywall sheets - sound deadening "green glue" - sound n safe insulation - vapour barrier? - maybe 2x4's for the doors (I did drop off enough 2 weeks ago) - door latch and lock - 1"x2" door flashing - closed cell foam gasket for sealing door

    I can provide more precise quantities on any materials needed

    Leave a comment:


  • MIPS
    replied
    Hey guys.
    FYI, my AMC is stuck in front of the collector for the next week while a new gas tank ships (long story). If you need the car moved give me a shout and I can see if it can be pushed somewhere else.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garret H
    replied
    Update July 2:
    Nicholas Adams and metal dojo have been busy nailing siding to the dust collector. That part is about halfway.

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    I dropped off some 2x4's x 92" long. These are for the doors, Rob's suggestion was to build the doors in 4 pieces with a top and bottom half to keep the weight down. Then to empty the barrel you really only need to open the lower left door. Each 92" can be cut to make 1 door stud and one door plate (horizontal).

    I built the roof frame tonight but didn't have time to put the plywood roof sheeting on. Its sitting in the woodshop.

    Leave a comment:

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