Prusa I3 MK2
After several failed prints I’ve made an adjustment. I’ve very lightly sanded the kapton tape on the print bed with 220 grit sandpaper. This was one of those suggested steps that I was reluctant to take as it cannot be taken back.
I’ve made the live Z adjust at least -0.5mm. Seems to be working fine.
I’ve also adjusted the normal print setting on the octoprint for a wider brim and forced support material. Hard lesson: in slic3r you must save the configuration changes on the print tab before slicing or changing tabs.
Other lessons: Don’t clean a hot print bed with alcohol. It leaves white ghosting. Water and a J-cloth do better. No lint from the paper towels. Still better to clean it at a lower temperature.
@Grant-Fraser Sorry grant, I “cleaned” it with an alcoholic cloth after someone’s print failed, It won’t happen again thanks for the heads up.
The residue is likely a byproduct of using dollar store alcohol. The bitterants they use to denature it and keep people from drinking it leave residue. If we were in Alberta, I’d try Everclear. That stuff is a pretty decent residue-free cleaning agent.
@pierre I was using medical grade alcohol wipes.
It may have been a chemical reaction between the alcohol and the 100 degree kapton tape. It didn’t just wipe off. There was sanding and scrubbing with water. I’m the one that did it.
I’ve cleaned the bed with alcohol before too. I didn’t notice a reaction at lower temperatures. Unless the bed is greasy let’s just stick with water
The setup of the 3D printers looks much improved - thanks to everyone who is chipping away at refining the setup!
@Grant-Fraser I have found recently that the Kapton tape was actually a PEI sheet If our sheet of PEI wears out we can buy more here
Turn out that they want you to use alcohol.
After rubbing down the build plate with isopropyl alcohol I am getting perfect bed adhesion.
Turn out the white dry film drastically helps with bed adhesion!
Side note, DO NOT USE WHILE PLATE IS HOT!
Clean the bed while it is warm or cold