ShapeOko One CNC Router

  • Using the CNC Router

    This beautiful piece of machinery has been donated to us by Mellem
    . Thank you @mellem !

    1. Safety

    • Wear safety glasses and earplugs when the machine is operating
    • Clear the table and do visual inspection to make sure nothing is going to get in the way
    • Always be ready to hit the main switch which will cut power to motors and the spindle immediately
    • Make sure to clamp down your work piece good and give it a push to make sure it is not going to move
    • Plug in the shop vac and make sure you contain the dust during cut

    2. Drawing

    You can use any 2D vector drawing application that can produce SVG or DXF files. We recommend using Inkscape because it is awesome, open source, and free. There are a lot of tutorials for Inkscape available online, and several people at the space are familiar with it.

    You can also use any CAD application. OnShape and Fusion 360 are free and pretty common among our members.

    3. CAM

    We recommend starting with Easel which is a web application developed by inventables. You can use it on your own computer, or use any computer at the space. The practical cutting area of our router is 60in by 60in.

    There are two cutting techniques to choose from in easel. Fill will do a pocket operation and remove all the material inside the enclosed contour to the depth you provide. It will decide how many passes it needs to do to get to the provided depth. The second technique is outline which will follow a path and cut it to the depth provided. Easel can optionally place some tabs (areas that wont be cut) so that your piece does not break off before cutting is finished.

    Other CAM application may have different cut operations. The output of this step is a GCode file. Depending on the program you use this file may have different extention such as nc, cnc, or gcode.

    To export your g-code from easel go to Machine :arrow_forward: Advanced :arrow_forward: Generate G-code.

    4. Cut!

    Once you have your G-code generated with your favourite CAM software, your are ready to cut. We use Chillipeppr to control this machine and send jobs to it. Just open chillipeppr in a browser (or use existing instance running), drag your gcode file into it. You can see a visual simulation of your gcode.

    Make sure the main power is off. Move the spindle out of the way. Clamp your work piece down securely. Put the bit you want to use in the spindle and make sure to tighten it. The spindle takes router bits with a 1/4in shank. We have several bits available in the ShapeOko One drawer. If you break a bit, please just let us know so we can replace it.


    • Cutting area 60in by 60in
    • Spindle:
      • 1HP Bosch Colt
      • 1/4in chuck
      • 17mm wrench to replace bits

  • Going to keep my eyes open for a mag starter switch (not a reed switch)for you all. It would start and stop the router, vacuum, lights and whatever at the same time. Could also provide overload protection for router depending on set up. Provides under voltage protection and drop out incase of power failure. Makes multipe emergency stop buttons and limit switches easier too. Pretty much code for machinery and I feel that it’s safer.

  • I’m working on a controller box for the cnc. It will be a couple of relays to control the gantry and the router separately. Has low voltage dropout but no overload. I plan to add limit switches. Extra e-stops are possible

  • 1445143761979377591639.jpg
    New table base for the cnc constructed. Waiting overnight for the PL400 to set. Tomorrow I plan to shave down any high spots and then transfer the table.

    At that point having Aras or someone familiar with the machine could show up to transfer the cnc to the new table and carve the vacuum channels.

  • Looks great! Now you got me excited! :smile:

  • @tinfoilknight said:

    I’m working on a controller box for the cnc. It will be a couple of relays to control the gantry and the router separately. Has low voltage dropout but no overload. I plan to add limit switches. Extra e-stops are possible

    Drop out was the only important thing i was considering. Well done. I will look out for stop buttons and boxes then.

  • Inkscape drawings for router base

  • @tinfoilknight looks awesome! I will cut this tomorrow. Let me know when you think you’ll be around. Thanks!

  • It will have to wait one more day. There was an issue with the control box.

  • Linux

    Update on the cutting for the router base?

    Learning and working on learning more!


  • It was doing really good on the second quadrant. The first three passes went flawlessly. Then the vacuum filter got completely covered with the fine saw dust and that’s when the shop vac started to suck less, and this is what happened:


    More dust on the V rails caused the X axis to skip.

    Lessen learned: we need an even better dust collection system.

    Edit: speaking of dust collector, I found this on kijiji. Is it a good deal? Should we just go for it?

  • For fine particulate capture, you can’t beat a water filter on price-performance grounds:

    I like old/simple/reliable mechanisms like this.

  • I have a Dust Deputy: and it works really well. Hardly any dust makes it to the vacuum.

  • I’ve picked up some fine dust bags for the shop vac. This way the filter won’t clog so fast

  • Does the router blow air down onto the table? My Dewalt router did that and I had to install a deflector to blow the air sideways. The dust hood I printed for my router table only allows for 3/4" material height which works for me but probably not the MakerSpace router. I have a piece of 1/2" Lexan sheet and some small round Neodymium magnets that I will bring and leave beside the router. There should be enough Lexan to cut out a nice dust shoe and the magnets can be used to attach a skirt. I’ll see if I have any other material that might be useful for making a dust shoe as well. I will drop it off on Monday while Aras is making himself famous. : )

  • The cabinet is improved. There is a washable filter installed and a bathroom fan. This will provide filtered positive pressure air to the computer to keep it from filling with dust. There is also a switch on the right hand side that powers the cabinet and computer. I changed the bios settings to have the computer power on automatically after a power outage. When you hit the switch the fan, monitor, and computer all power up.

  • Metal

    Water filter is complete and installed!! It works great, I’ll post instructions for use and maintenance on the wall above the filter as well as on the Forum once I write something up tonight.

  • Metal

    Also I’ve levelled the extruded rails so they are parallel to the table surface now. Well mostly parallel, the south east corner is 0.23mm lower than the rest but it’s better than the 3.2mm difference we had before!!!

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