3d Print - Board game piece

  • Another successful print tonight:

    3d printed piece

    I did get some warping, but I’m thinking that it was because the fan wasn’t on initially.

    I did some research and it seems like a heated bed might help.

  • Linux

    Nice print!

    We use a heated bed with PLA and find it an improvement over no heated bed. Still not perfect though, we still get some warping on larger parts with a high infill level. The thin part below was printed with the heated bed turned on and is pretty much flat (minimal warping), without heating the bed the same part tends to curl.


    My understanding is that with PLA you get a better result with properly cooling the part as it is printing. I have not wrapped my head around ‘properly’ cooling the part though; you want to cool the part but not the tip of the extruder. We used to simply direct a fan down to blow across both the tip of the extruder and the part, but this is apparently not the best way to do it, because you are cooling the extruder down at the same time. Plus, if the bed is heated you are also ‘cooling’ the bed, apparently not desirable. The goal is to blow across the part with a heated bed? Most of what I’ve read is that with proper part cooling you do not need a heated bed when printing PLA, so blowing down (but not onto the extruder tip) is then the goal?

    I am thinking of a shroud of some sort to direct the air but am not sure what it should look like.

    Honestly, I have not found anything really clearly written on cooling the printed part down. It seems to be a bit of an art still.

  • 3D

    @Chris to have proper-ish cooling for PLA just blow on the thing you’re printing with ~40mm fan at full speed. I am not currently using any stream guides – just hot glued a fan to the carriage – and even big flats are quite flat.
    Don’t think much about cooling your extruder tip. There is PID control doing it’s business to keep extruder tip hot and it totally can keep it’s temp at ~180C. If not (or you’re concerned about wasted current) – just wrap the heater block with kapton tape and/or fiberglass mat piece. It’s like heater block is putting on a jacket ^_^
    I do not use heated bed for PLA. I heard some people do though. Whatever gives you good results. And the thingy in the pic looks pretty decent to me.

    @Ryan to get flattER parts out of printer in makerspace print them slower. Like, at 50% speed. You can set speed rate in Octoprint.

Log in to reply