Industrial radial arm saw

  • Metal

    So we have an opportunity to obtain this serious piece of equipment for the wood shop. We would have to do some re-arranging to make a home for it but it would replace two of the saws we have already. I can pick it up on Wednesday if a few people are willing to help disassemble and install it at hack night.
    I guess I’m looking for a general consensus as to whether or not to go for it. It works fine but needs a blade. 0_1470711316891_image.jpg

  • Looks good to me. I would be curious what our experience wood workers think about this change.

    If you decide to go for it, I will help move things around.

    cc @Bradley-Maker @frank @Vaughn

  • I’m interested in getting that beast into the shop… but I’m not sure if I’m back in town in time for hack night. The only wood-working saw I’m accustomed to getting repeatable results with is a big, heavy 1950’s era DeWalt radial arm saw. It is the Bridgeport milling machine of woodworking tools as far as I’m concerned. You set up your stops, clamp your wood in place and make 2 or 50 or 1000 interchangable pieces.

  • I don’t have much experience using one. The table saw is my go-to cutting tool. So, maybe I’m ignorant of this tool’s potential beyond cutting long stock shorter. There is some debate about radial arm saws being inherently dangerous since the rotation makes the blade want to climb the wood.
    I’d say that if this tool is better than the one in the shop now, we "upgrade ".

  • @frank the claims about radial arm saws wanting to climb are a byproduct of them almost exclusively being used in fine woodworking shops… They will try to climb if you make a climb cut. That is when you push the wood against the fence with clamps or your free hand and pull the saw towards yourself. This is frequently reccomended as the proper way to use the saw, even though you’d never try it with a skilsaw (the closest handheld equivalent ) the reason they suggest it is that climb cuts have less tear out and look nicer. If you want to avoid climbing on the radial arm, you use it exactly like you would a table saw, chop saw or skill saw: pull the blade all the way back, put the wood between the fence and the blade and push the blade through slowly. The blade will push the wood toward the fence then. It may want to lift off the table slightly at the start of the cut, but it is easily managed by holding it down if the stock is long, or by using jigs to hold it if not.

  • Wood

    Yes, definite good addition.

  • Wood

    @arasbm i say go for it. I can help.

  • Design Lab

    I would say go for it, and add that having two radials one with Dado and one reg might be an idea? I am out of town or I would help! Also, we have a nice stand up band saw waiting to be picked up - if you see a good spot for it in the woodshop.
    Looking forward to getting back to the space and digging in again!

  • Wood

    @Vaughn if something needs to be picked up I can do that…if it can fit in the back of a fullsize tahoe with seats down. Which pretty much will hold most things…I also have a 4x8 trailer for any of the big stuff.

    Let me know when and where and who.

  • I have a Dewalt Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw–sliding-compound-miter-saw/dws780 which is about the closest I’ve ever come to using a radial arm saw, and I absolutely love it.

    With a nice carbide blade and fence with stops on it, you get very nice repeatable cuts.

    I also got the light which causes the blade to cast a shadow so you can see exactly where it will cut on either side of the blade.

    It’s nice to be able to cut long material without having to move the material. For example, I cut my stair stringers from 1-3/4" x 12" laminated beams. Not something I would have wanted to do on my table saw.

  • My best guess from the pictures is that is a 33-420 Delta saw… which means it’d throw about a 18" blade… Allowing 2" for a stiffener, that still allows for cutting through about a 6" thick plank. Not too shabby.

    Working from the assumption that I have the correct model of saw, I’ve attached a setup manual here:

  • Member

    Bought grey spray paint for this today

  • Wood

    @Chainmaildave excellent…tonight I’ll come in and see how the electrolsis tank is doing and maybe prep some pieces for paint. And maybe paint if time allows

  • Metal

    So the restoration is coming along nicely, the next step is powering this beast. We need to source a 3phase converter (or two) and we have a few options, either a static converter which is the cheapest and easiest option, although it will derate the motor to 2/3 power. Ive found them online through Amazon for around $300 cnd. but I’m hoping someone can source one locally for a better price. Maybe our friends at Tusk Automation could point us in the right direction? @toxuin ??
    The other option is to build a Rotary Converter, which I think is more in line with the Makerspace philosophy. We would just need to source an extra 3phase motor anda large single phase one to drive it.

  • @fullmetalbuddha If you guys have a rough idea of HP required I can have a look around the mill for an older 3 phase motor that is obsolete in terms of what we use(Maybe 7-1/2HP or 10HP?. No promises, but there’s a possibility of finding something in the “bone yard”.

    Also, it will be rated at 480VAC, and I believe the motor on the saw is 240/480 so that’ll work.

  • 0_1471226946254_1471226814346-1368077459.jpg short answer is 5hp

  • This site gives a rough idea how to use a capacitor to run a three phase motor on a single phase system.
    The next step is something called a static phase converter. It’s a little more involved to make but not very expensive.

  • Please don’t turn all that energy into heat for the sake of a rotary converter…

    This guide is well written and addresses what you intend to do, most importantly, safely and energy conscious.

  • @pierre that box has some caps and a barrier strip. Kind of a least effort box

  • @Keerf that’s more or less the idea but other sites have more specific information

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