Solidoodle 3D Printer



  • It’s been down for the last few months due to “driver issues”. Was told last weekend that it /might/ be a board fault and that a bunch of parts (mainly pin headers) needed to be swapped to a donor control board.
    Took the boards home and did the desolder, swap and repaired several damaged pads. Reinstalled the replacement this evening. Testing as follows

    X-drive circuit test (both directions): PASSED
    Y-drive circuit test (both directions): PASSED
    Z-drive circuit test (both directions): PASSED
    Extruder circuit test (both directions): FAILED - Does not respond to manual control
    Bed temperature test (does it turn on): FAILED - OctoPrint won’t keep settings
    Extruder tip temperature test (does it turn on): FAILED - OctoPrint won’t keep settings

    An audible hum could be heard and the extruder motor is getting rather warm. I need someone to verify that its driver is working.
    The fan for the extruder motor has worn out. It needs to be replaced.

    Vaughn has cleaned up the shelf with the printers and added new lighting. Be aware the new overhead LED lamp also powers the RasPi using the USB port.


  • Design Lab

    Is it possible to lower the shelf that the 3D printers are on as part of this rebuild? Short people (especially kids) deserve to see 3D printing, too!

    Related: I moved the drill press in the woodshop onto the lower table. Much betta.



  • Thanks for moving that… last time I drilled something upstairs, I had to stand on a stool to get it lined up.


  • Design Lab

    @pierre reminds me a a Shitsu-Mastiffe cross I met - apparently a stool was used for that fabrication, too.



  • It would be great to get the printer running! I’ve been really busy with a project at home lately, that I can’t finish off until I print a few more parts. If there is a need to donate any parts to the printer, if something needs to be replaced, let me know.


  • Design Lab

    Hey @sireatalote : what do we need to make your 3D printer work? Ive got a few bucks to throw in.

    Can we get a list and costs happening?



  • I only know the basics of the controller. I have no idea what to do from here, hence why I stopped poking at it once it started failing tests so someone more knowledgeable could finish it.



  • Looking at the results @MIPS has found I’ve decided to try a brand new controller… I’ve ordered one off eBay. Apparently they’re worth about $30 shipped these days with the correct molex headers for the printer.



  • @pierre I may have ordered the same one a while back. If it’s here within the next week or so and you want to do a swap till yours has arrived we can do that.


  • Member

    I will prepare a proper test print for the occasion :+1:



  • @pierre coincidentally my board showed up today.

    http://imgur.com/a/6Hwem

    It’s different. I don’t think the one you guys have on there is RAMPS is it?



  • Sanguinololu… I’m getting the 1.3a variant.


  • Design Lab

    Guys, we have 20 schools pointed straight at our heads on this capability - I believe we should fully support (including Society funds) developing not a bare-bones system but a phat one (see laser cutter purchase success for proof ).

    It starts with quantifying the requirement and how we can deliver it to members and the public. Once we have that information, we can figure out how to acquire it.



  • I would strongly support the space getting a more reliable printer with a bigger build volume. It would open up a lot of possibilities as the ones we currently have are pretty limited.


  • Design Lab

    I can confirm that with reliable 3d printing both the EPL Makerspace and ENTS seem to get A LOT of traffic from these. I think we need to look at what is a reasonable tool budget for the next year, prioritize tools according to membership feedback, and then spend spend spend that money!



  • @HeatherRose

    You frequently get to choose between more reliability and bigger build volume. When you double the travel of a CNC axis, you need to square the stiffness of the support, or the machine becomes less rigid. This is illustrated nicely between the 3020 router and the Shapoko. The Shapoko is a custom build at about 1.5 times the designed travel, with the same support members as the original design, and it is quite flexible at the center of its work envelope as a consequence.

    Adding stiffness via geometry is better than adding stiffness via mass (tube vs bar stock!), because doing rapids on a heavy object runs into lost steps (or extra steps!) via inertia.



  • @pierre I’m sure some compromises would need to be made, and getting a good print off any printer is an art form- but there are still better options out there that could be useful for the club. Just a thought. That being said, having any printer that runs would be a start.


  • Member

    I’d love to see that thing running again soon, almost enough working computers now to set up a workshop.



  • Printer was working, got a couple prints off it a few days ago and today. Unfortunately, got an “unable to connect to server” error after about an hour today. Tried restarting the board and computer, board turned back on but wouldn’t talk through an ethernet cable. We also tried plugging in a monitor, but no signal. Any ideas? It just stopped out of the blue.



  • The pi needs a specific and odd boot sequence to keep the motor power supply from back feeding up the USB. Unplug usb cable to printer. Boot up pi. Plug in USB. Known issue on the pi 1b



  • Thanks! I will go back tonight and try that if it still needs doing when I finish up my other commitments tonight.


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