Solidoodle 3D Printer

  • I think it might be the sd card.

  • yoyo. Its all good. #d printer is up and going. :)

  • My second 3d print. I used a 5v fan to cool the top of the cube when it was printing.

  • Can somebody print a calibration cube, and mark x y and z sides before they pop it off the plate.

    Then measure the cube with calipers after you do that.

    Take expected dimensions, and measured dimensions and compute scaling factor for each axis. Then we’ll put the scaling factors into the RAMPS board (can be done from the terminal tab in octoprint) and save them. That’ll make it print to-size parts again.

    Printing stuff is cool and all… but unless it is making parts with correct dimensions, the whole exercise is not particularly useful.

  • test cube 1.
    x= 21.65
    I will do another calibration cube because I wasn’t happy the way this one turned out.
    I think I had forgot to home it. lolz

  • test cube 2

  • Cool, that makes the calibration factors:

    X: 0.924
    Y: 0.924
    Z: 1.004

    Which sounds pretty close to what I had on the old control board I think. The numbers might still be sharpied onto the top rail of the machine.

    Was the thickness of the cube pretty much even across the top and bottom? (Bed levelling question…)

    We should be able to send $ to GRBL and it’ll tell us the current values of the internal variables. Then it is just a matter of setting new values for $100 - $102 (x,y,z steps/mm) to reflect the calibrated values. After that a 1mm step should move by 1mm. :) If we were particularly bloody minded, we could then multiply those values by 25.4 and turn it into an inch-calibrated machine. @toxuin might never speak to us again though.

  • Z Might be closer then that. I had adjusted the extruder so Z axis is different now.
    I noticed adding a fan also you get amazing prints. Col is doing a huge print that takes up most of he bed.

  • The bed might be off a bit. On most of my test cubes. The back left corner seems to be slightly missed on the first layer. For the top. The top seems to be mostly leveled. Some imperfections going diagonally across the top.

  • 3D

    @pierre GRBL is for CNC-machines and normally runs on 328p atmegas. I am pretty sure the board has a much beefier 644p and runs some sort of Marlin firmware, which does not have a “$” command, but rather follows a G-Code convention for 3D Printers.
    You can switch to inches just by sending a G20 command. It’l be temporary operation mode and it is actually useful when you have a weird-ass .stl from Blender made with metrically-challenged units enabled. It pretty much multiplies your G0 and G1’s by 2.54 on the fly, no need to re-calibrate the machine for that.

  • So, there’s a big print in progress that has been left for a couple days- I couldn’t print anything yesterday and when I went by today it was still sitting there- it’s several hours in, and has several hours left and I don’t want to be responsible for pulling it off the plate and wasting all the print time and filament… @Ron_Ron, I think you said you know who it belongs to? Any idea if they’re planning to finish it?

  • 3D

    Its my print and I was planning to finish it. Sorry its taking soo long

  • Let me know when if you can, so that I know when I can go back and keep printing my droid parts? :)

  • I should dig up some spare glass plates so you can swap them out… I would expect the print to de-lam from the glass when you try to continue it though. When the bed cools below 60C, ABS usually just pops right off the glass. I doubt you can heat it up evenly enough to resume the print. @ColeVanD please report back if you manage to do it, and how you accomplish this. I’d suggest using ABS juice, except that I’ve exploded a glass plate using that before, part cooled, differential contraction happened, the juice would not let go. It was a mess.

  • Design Lab

    Let’s be sure we do our jobs with consideration of others needs on the equipment and space - there’s more to doing your job, than doing your job, in a shared space. You have to include clean-up time and schedule your work so others aren’t impeded.

    Sorry @HeatherRose - and thanks for the message!

  • Classroom

    @pierre, is there anything you have to do (besides wait) to get the flashy Octoprint GUI back after restarting? It doesn’t seem to want to come back up for @HeatherRose. It just seems stuck on the one that looks like a webpage from 1996. I think all of the required controls should still be there, but it is much less user friendly.

  • It takes about 5 minutes from the time the webserver comes up before it starts serving all the CSS.

  • Classroom

    @pierre thanks. @HeatherRose found that the SD card was loose, and after fixing it the issue appeared to be resolved.

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